German White

2009 Keller, Riesling “Morstein” Chalky, smoky-mineral, agrumes aroma.  Complex on the palette with loads of fruit, albeit still closed.  Balance with bracing acidity.  Long finish with lime and grapefruit feel.  Great wine in the making.  Let it air at least for 3 hr. 95+/100 March-May 2014 2011 Clemens Busch, Marlenberg, Fahrlay, “Terrassen” This is from the red slate soil of the vineyard in Moselle we have visited.  They have some […]


American White

2000 Mount Eden, Estate Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains This was a nice surprised. We first uncorked a 1995 which was madeirized.  The color of 2000 is golden yellow. The aroma is ripe pear and apple. It weighs on the palette, not particularly elegant but not overextracted either. I liked the classical aged chardonnay flavors, the earthy-mineral medium-long finish which leaves a pleasant bitterness.  Good structure. Alcohol-acidity-fruit balance is now optimum. […]


American Red

1990 Kalin Pinot Noir, “Cuvee DD” Intriquing toffee, coffee, spice box aroma but the palette is hollow. Passed its prime long ago. Too bad. March-May 2014 1997 Leonetti, Merlot Has begun to decline but has not lost it all. The nose is perfumed with tobacco, kirsch, plum, licorice. Flavors follow but is beginning to lose fruit. Still gives some pleasure. Drink immediately.  89/100 March-May 2014 2002 Dalla Valle, Cabernet Licorice, […]


Italian Red

2001 Benanti, “Serra della Contessa”, Etna A kiss of toast and ripe blackberry, black raspberry, mace, cinnamon aroma.  The palette is a nice contrast with bracing acidity and more red fruits. Quite elegant. Silky, velvety texture.  A bit too oaky but Nerello Mascalese’s character is not lost, esp. in the pleasantly tart and earthy finish from volcanic soil.   93/100 March-May 2014 1990 Aldo Conterno, Barolo Vigna Colonello, “Bricco Bussia” This […]


Italian White

2010  Giacomelli, Vermentino, Boboli Vinissimo “Colli di Luna” This is really elegant for Vermentino. Floral, acacia and summer pit fruits nose. Round, full, smooth but not fat on the palate. The oak is well integrated.  Ripe apricot flavor developed after 2 hours.  Touch of salinity in the medium-long finish.  Good acid-fruit balance. One of the best Ligurian whites I have tasted.  92/100 March-May 2014 2012 Lauro Aschero, Pigato, Riviera Ligure […]


Spanish Red

1995 Clos de L’Abac, Priorat It has  lost its fruit and faded on the palette. The nose is jammy, overripe fruit. Clearly a victim of trying to get high scores early on. March-May 2014  2005 Els Jelipins A bottle of this odd bio wine has shown better in summer of 2013. I opened this bottle, it was too sweet and put it away and left it with cork in the […]


Austrian White

2012 Ott, Gruner Veltiner, “Stein””, Wagram This wine has complex, full, fruity aroma with apricot, mango, peach. The palette is full, lush and the finish has some smoky minerality.  The balance is right, not overripe fruit and no botyritis.  93/100 March-May 2014 1999 Hirtzberger, Smaragd Riesling, “Singerreidel” Remarkable Riesling.  Orange rind, agrumes aroma. A touch botrytis is well buffered by fruit and acidity. The initial palette impression is honeyed-agrumes but […]


Spanish White

2011 Emilio Rojo, Ribeiro One of the best, if not “the” best white of Spain. 2011 had showed even better a few months ago in Elkano restaurant in Getaria. Still this is very good. Steely nose with a touch of citrus. Agrumes flavors, remarkable saline minerality in the finish. Laser like, lean and sharp. Long finish. 93/100 March-May 2014 2008 Emilio Rojo, Ribeiro Salty-minerally, apple, quince, floral aroma. Straight (“droit”), […]



2011, Kiralyudvar, Tokaj, Furmint Sec We had a glass at Chez Panisse Café with shellfish and bought some bottles, under $20.   Caramelized pineapple and mineral-saline aroma.  Nice grip on the palette, esp. citrus and pipen apple. Had I not known I may have guessed Chenin Blanc. 90/100 March-May 2014